The one-woman creative force behind Alighieri Jewellery, Rosh Mahtani has been bringing her enchanting literary interpretations to life since 2014. So inspired by Dante Aligheri’s Divine Comedy was the Oxford Italian literature major, that she began hand-casting lost-wax gold pieces, each individually corresponding to one of Dante’s 100 poems. As the pilgrim journeys through the realms of Hell, Purgatory, and Paradise, he is met by mythical creatures, scraggy landscapes and terrifying demons. Like Dante’s subject, each piece of Aligheri Jewellery is battered, imperfect, and twisted in melancholic beauty. With names like The Over-Thinker Hair Tie, The Floating Questions Ring and The Dangerous Game Bracelet, every piece tells a story corresponding both to Dante’s odyssey and the trials and tribulations of modern love.
Last month, Aligheri Jewellery was selected as one of the five Future British designers by the British Fashion Council.
What's the last thing you saw that inspired you?
The “Feminist Avant-Garde” exhibition at The Photographer’s Gallery was really inspiring - Francesca Woodman’s self-portraits in particular.
The crowds of women who came out to protest at The Women’s March in Paris (and all over the world) - it was overwhelming.
I also recently met with an incredible film director - Reed Morano; talking to her about her work and experiences gave me a big burst of creative energy.
It’s been an inspiring month!
Please describe your SS17 collection in three words:
Broken sculptures, re-told.
What's your earliest fashion memory?
My early childhood was spent in Africa, so we didn’t really have magazines or a fashion scene. We did have VH1, and I was obsessed with the No Doubt video, “Don’t Speak”, in which Gwen Stefani wears a long blue, polka-dot shirt-dress with short sleeves and no shoes. I used to dream about that dress. I recently saw a Comme des Garcons number that reminded me of it very much - not purchasing that remains on my regret-list.
The best thing about presenting your collection in London is…
Showing alongside the designers I look up to, it’s a really special feeling.
What was your favourite piece in your last collection and why?
I like the Jaja necklace - it’s a broken locket that tells the story of Dante and Virgil in the “Divine Comedy”. Virgil is Dante's guide and counsel through the abyss of the Inferno and up the mountain of Purgatory,
Dante refers to him as "il maestro" (the master) and "la fonte" (the fountain of knowledge.) This relationship is one of friendship, protection and trust, in a quest that cannot be accomplished alone. The Jaja necklace is created in response to the person who acts as my Virgil, in a sometimes rocky landscape.
What piece of music best represents the mood of Alighieri?
Fleetwood Mac - Gypsy - “and it all comes down to you.”
The film that most speaks to your aesthetic is:
Chris Marker, “La Jetée” - it’s a film made entirely of still images - the first of its kind. Oh, and “37° 2 Le Matin”, and “Blue is the Warmest Colour” - I could not get that film out of my mind for a very long time after watching it.
Your favourite fictional character is:
Italo Calvino’s Cosimo from “The Baron in the Trees” because he’s the rebellious child of a Baron, who climbs into the trees and vows never to come down. He builds a life and a society in the leafy canopies, with people and animals alike. He’s full of conviction, dry wit and idealism.
If only one woman (alive or dead) could wear your collection for the rest of eternity, who would you want it to be?
Stevie Nicks.
What is your favourite material to work with, and why?
All my pieces are created through the process of lost-wax casting. I love working with wax because it’s so tactile - it can be hard, or malleable, and it’s very sensitive to heat. You have to be cautious and know when to stop working on a piece, because if you apply too much heat it can simply melt away.
SHARE
