Casa / Breaking news - 7/16/20
Maison Margiela Artisanal Co-Ed Collection Autumn-Winter 2020
July 2020
Hope, heroism, hedonism. Constrained at the mercy of nature, resourcefulness becomes a force of vigour. For the Autumn-Winter 2020 Artisanal collection, Maison Margiela empowers our collective moment of resurgence by reinforcing its own ethics. Creative director John Galliano detects in times of uncertainty a desire for transparency: a new consciousness clarified by the illumination of the creative process and the human values it represents. Through the voyeuristic format of film, image-maker Nick Knight captures the euphoria and melancholia of the genderless artisanal practice. It unravels through the grammar of the thriller in a narrative story under the acronymic title of S.W.A.L.K.
Limitation leads to escapism: a human sentiment of hope expressed through heroism and hedonism. Employing the resourceful ritual of Recicla – Maison Margiela’s marque for upcycled vintage finds – tailored garments from the classic gentleman’s wardrobe transform through heroic cutting and manifest in chivalrous silhouettes. Imbued with the physicality of L’Apache – the dramatic lovers’ dance of the fin de siècle – hedonistic lines infuse recovered cloth with the invigorating parfum of hope. An allegory between the challenges of the present and the past, the collection evokes the resourceful and escapist energy of the New Romantics in 1980s’ London.
Circular cutting – a technique embedded within John Galliano’s memories of the era – entwines with a hankering for beauty fuelled by the confines of our moment in time. Underpinned by a leitmotif of transparency, the wet-drapery of neoclassical marble sculpture informs the chiselled fragility of voilage dress constructions. Here, circular cutting gracefully disrupts the draping of lightweight canvases to capture the memory of a translucent wet look. In a corresponding take on filtrage, the overlay of fabrics in a dress creates an interactive print with a purpose. Torchlit with a final layer of projection, it is activated by the filmic process, forever illuminated by the digital age of fashion.
Presentation
Embracing the constraints of our moment in time, creative director John Galliano adapts the Autumn-Winter 2020 Artisanal collection to the medium of film. Visualised by image-maker Nick Knight, the creation and conclusion of the collection is conveyed through the theatrical genre of the thriller. Titled S.W.A.L.K, the feature film is collaged from narrative imagery and documentary footage recorded after Maison Margiela reopened following the lockdown. Here, the Artisanal and atelier teams were fitted with GoPros as drones hovered over fittings and thermal cameras captured the heat of the process work. As a result, garments actively entered into a dialogue with the cinematic adaptation. A celestial and voyeuristic portrayal of the creative practice, the film reflects ideals of transparency, connectivity and inclusion key to our collective present experience.
Materials
Upcycled Recicla garments appear in their original fabrication: the tailoring and outdoor wools, tweeds and linens of the humble gentleman’s wardrobe. Voilage dresses materialise in super light materials and soft tailoring fabrics from butter muslin to tulle and thermocollant, enabling the effect of wet look. Chiffon and organza feature in overlay and in dialogue with the digital embellishment of light.
Techniques
Maison Margiela pieces labelled Recicla signify recycled items handpicked from vintage stores by creative director John Galliano, upcycled into new manifestations. Invoking the technique of anonymity of the lining – the revelation of a garment’s construction through cutting – Recicla outerwear from the classic men’s wardrobe is transformed through heroic cutting, drawing on the intense movements of L’Apache dance. Circular cutting signifies garments created from several circular panels, the interaction of which disrupts the draping. Through the shadow play of layered textiles, the technique is employed to feign the look of wet textile in voilage dresses informed by the sculpted veils of marble statues. In undergarments, textiles are suppressed within transparent silhouettes to achieve a similar effect. Prints with a purpose denote inspired or interactive patterns and adornments. Here, the overlay of such fabrics creates motifs within a filtrage that includes the projection of light, effectively integrating the cinematic presentation format of the collection into the garment.
Palette
The collection is retained in the muted colours of the classic gentleman’s wardrobe as determined by the former life of Recicla pieces: black, navy, grey and beige. Voilage dresses materialise in the authentic chalk and powder nuances of neoclassicism, while aquarelle dresses blend faint pastels through a filtrage of translucency. A virtual print dress in layers of black and red incorporates the projection of light as its final coat of colour.
Accessories
Drawing on the movement of L’Apache, shoes appear as hand-made Tabi ghillies in tweed or chiffon, as dance sandals familiar to the Ballets Russes, and as leather Tabi toes for dancing. An ode to the New Romantics, pointy lace-up boots feature alongside deconstructed pixie boots. Transparent Tabis – both pumps and derbies – complement the wet look motif of the collection, while handmade sheer stockings further contribute to the illusion. Jewellery manifests as small sculptures enabling free attachment. Tied with fabric around the body, the hand-crafted, sculpted and 3-D-printed volumes stage a clash between the free expression of the Blitz Kids in 1980s’ London and the cerebral geometry of their Memphis Group contemporaries.
July 2020
Hope, heroism, hedonism. Constrained at the mercy of nature, resourcefulness becomes a force of vigour. For the Autumn-Winter 2020 Artisanal collection, Maison Margiela empowers our collective moment of resurgence by reinforcing its own ethics. Creative director John Galliano detects in times of uncertainty a desire for transparency: a new consciousness clarified by the illumination of the creative process and the human values it represents. Through the voyeuristic format of film, image-maker Nick Knight captures the euphoria and melancholia of the genderless artisanal practice. It unravels through the grammar of the thriller in a narrative story under the acronymic title of S.W.A.L.K.
Limitation leads to escapism: a human sentiment of hope expressed through heroism and hedonism. Employing the resourceful ritual of Recicla – Maison Margiela’s marque for upcycled vintage finds – tailored garments from the classic gentleman’s wardrobe transform through heroic cutting and manifest in chivalrous silhouettes. Imbued with the physicality of L’Apache – the dramatic lovers’ dance of the fin de siècle – hedonistic lines infuse recovered cloth with the invigorating parfum of hope. An allegory between the challenges of the present and the past, the collection evokes the resourceful and escapist energy of the New Romantics in 1980s’ London.
Circular cutting – a technique embedded within John Galliano’s memories of the era – entwines with a hankering for beauty fuelled by the confines of our moment in time. Underpinned by a leitmotif of transparency, the wet-drapery of neoclassical marble sculpture informs the chiselled fragility of voilage dress constructions. Here, circular cutting gracefully disrupts the draping of lightweight canvases to capture the memory of a translucent wet look. In a corresponding take on filtrage, the overlay of fabrics in a dress creates an interactive print with a purpose. Torchlit with a final layer of projection, it is activated by the filmic process, forever illuminated by the digital age of fashion.
Presentation
Embracing the constraints of our moment in time, creative director John Galliano adapts the Autumn-Winter 2020 Artisanal collection to the medium of film. Visualised by image-maker Nick Knight, the creation and conclusion of the collection is conveyed through the theatrical genre of the thriller. Titled S.W.A.L.K, the feature film is collaged from narrative imagery and documentary footage recorded after Maison Margiela reopened following the lockdown. Here, the Artisanal and atelier teams were fitted with GoPros as drones hovered over fittings and thermal cameras captured the heat of the process work. As a result, garments actively entered into a dialogue with the cinematic adaptation. A celestial and voyeuristic portrayal of the creative practice, the film reflects ideals of transparency, connectivity and inclusion key to our collective present experience.
Materials
Upcycled Recicla garments appear in their original fabrication: the tailoring and outdoor wools, tweeds and linens of the humble gentleman’s wardrobe. Voilage dresses materialise in super light materials and soft tailoring fabrics from butter muslin to tulle and thermocollant, enabling the effect of wet look. Chiffon and organza feature in overlay and in dialogue with the digital embellishment of light.
Techniques
Maison Margiela pieces labelled Recicla signify recycled items handpicked from vintage stores by creative director John Galliano, upcycled into new manifestations. Invoking the technique of anonymity of the lining – the revelation of a garment’s construction through cutting – Recicla outerwear from the classic men’s wardrobe is transformed through heroic cutting, drawing on the intense movements of L’Apache dance. Circular cutting signifies garments created from several circular panels, the interaction of which disrupts the draping. Through the shadow play of layered textiles, the technique is employed to feign the look of wet textile in voilage dresses informed by the sculpted veils of marble statues. In undergarments, textiles are suppressed within transparent silhouettes to achieve a similar effect. Prints with a purpose denote inspired or interactive patterns and adornments. Here, the overlay of such fabrics creates motifs within a filtrage that includes the projection of light, effectively integrating the cinematic presentation format of the collection into the garment.
Palette
The collection is retained in the muted colours of the classic gentleman’s wardrobe as determined by the former life of Recicla pieces: black, navy, grey and beige. Voilage dresses materialise in the authentic chalk and powder nuances of neoclassicism, while aquarelle dresses blend faint pastels through a filtrage of translucency. A virtual print dress in layers of black and red incorporates the projection of light as its final coat of colour.
Accessories
Drawing on the movement of L’Apache, shoes appear as hand-made Tabi ghillies in tweed or chiffon, as dance sandals familiar to the Ballets Russes, and as leather Tabi toes for dancing. An ode to the New Romantics, pointy lace-up boots feature alongside deconstructed pixie boots. Transparent Tabis – both pumps and derbies – complement the wet look motif of the collection, while handmade sheer stockings further contribute to the illusion. Jewellery manifests as small sculptures enabling free attachment. Tied with fabric around the body, the hand-crafted, sculpted and 3-D-printed volumes stage a clash between the free expression of the Blitz Kids in 1980s’ London and the cerebral geometry of their Memphis Group contemporaries.
Designer:
Maison Margiela
CONDIVIDERE
